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Guitar Humidity Effects

Postby Bob » 16 Nov 2011, 07:13

The average relative humidity in Utah is much lower than in most highly-populated areas of the world. Wood brought from damper places shrinks in size as it dries, which sometimes causes guitar boxes to crack (because the differing woods they are made from shrink different amounts and at different rates). Low humidity also eventually causes metal frets to stick out past the edges of previously wider wooden guitar necks. The fret problem can be fixed by carefully filing down both ends of each fret with a small file, but repaired cracks in wood sometimes open up again or new ones form as wood continues to dry.

During the 60's and early 70's I used to keep humidifiers in my guitar cases with the hope of avoiding those problems. However, the humidifiers would often dry-out while I was away on multi-week overseas trips and I eventually decided that the resulting wide humidity fluctuations probably would be more harmful than merely letting guitar wood dry one time to match the local environment.

That seemed to be a good plan for many years, but about 30 years after picking-up my Ramirez flamenco guitar from the Ramirez shop in Madrid and bringing it to Utah its top cracked. Of course, that might have happened even if the guitar had been kept in a humidified case all those years. It also happened so long after the guitar was brought to Utah that the wood probably would have dried about as much as it ever would have prior to development of the crack.

The average relative humidity on the Oregon Coast is of course much higher than in Utah, but even so, the absolute humidity is not nearly as high as in tropical or semi-tropical coastal areas, because the relatively cool air here cannot hold as much moisture as hotter air can. I haven't checked how the average absolute humidity compares between here and Madrid where three of my guitars were made, but despite this location being on the Coast and Madrid being inland the average temperature difference may make the absolute humidities similar.

Whether that is true or not, I have noticed surprising changes in all my guitars since moving here. They have been greater than expected and in directions opposite what I expected.

I have been here about four weeks. Each morning during the first three weeks the tunings of all the strings on all my guitars were flat compared to previous days. Each morning I had to tighten all the strings to bring them back up to pitch. (that also has continued this past week, but the day-to-day tuning changes have become much smaller) Wood expands when it absorbs water. Larger guitars should stretch strings tighter and raise musical pitches, but the opposite occurred. Of course, dry wood is stiffer than wet wood and that obviously had a greater effect than size expansion.

Tap a hard object on a piece of dry wood and a sharp sound with strong high-frequency components will be generated, because dry wood is stiff. Wet wood is more flexible. Tap the same hard object on a piece of wet wood and there will be a dull thud with relatively weak high-frequency components. It therefore seems reasonable to expect that guitars with very dry wood would produce crisp, high-frequency sounds and that guitars with damp wood would produce duller sounds with weaker high-frequency components. As reasonable as that may seem, the reverse happened as my guitars progressively absorbed more moisture each day during the first three weeks. It is difficult to describe the tonal changes (something like trying to describe the flavor of an orange to someone who has never tasted one), but they have been entirely different than I would have predicted. There are clearly more high-frequency components now than before, but that isn't the only change. The overall sound qualities of all my guitars, including my Tsiorba that was made in Portland, Oregon, have dramatically improved.

Those guitars were all made in much more humid environments than exists in Utah. Both their basic designs and individual adjustments made during construction were optimized at the humidities existing at the guitar-making sites. The guitars subsequently dried considerably when they were moved to Utah. Physical dimensions changed and the wood became stiffer (the neck widths of all those guitars decreased enough over time to necessitate filing down the fret ends). The combination of dimension and stiffness changes would have caused stress changes throughout, but the changes most important to sound quality would have been in the sound boxes. Sound box changes due to the extraordinarily dry Utah air obviously changed sound qualities far more than I had realized.

I don't know how to explain how wonderful those guitars now sound. You will just have to come here and hear them for yourself. When you do you also can enjoy a walk in the sand along historic Nye Beach, which is directly west down the hill from our place. Today was a beautiful, short-shirtsleeve day in Newport. I took a light jacket with me when I went down to Nye Beach for a walk this afternoon, but didn't need it, because the temperature was perfect without it. I took this photo with my cell phone on my way down.

Nye Beach.jpg

-Bob
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Re: Guitar Humidity Effects

Postby SamC » 16 Nov 2011, 13:34

Bob, The East Oregon climate is drier than the coast, but since my house is heated and cooled using a heat pump system, the humidity rarely goes below 45% in the house. When Peter braced my guitar he kept the humidity in his work room close to that figure. During the coldest times when the furnace kicks in overriding the heat pump, then the humidity falls and can go as low as 35%. I notice the Tsiorba will buzz more with heavy playing at that humidity. When the humidity reaches 60% in the spring, the guitar is not as bright and loud as at 45 to 55 %. It still sounds phenomenal, but it seems to be at its best when the humidity agrees with its original bracing humidity. I think the higher elevation is also a factor, perhaps only because higher is usually drier. I have noticed barometric pressure also effects how guitars respond and sound. A sudden drop in pressure with the humidity staying close to the same, can really cause the same effect as high humidity. I think the biggest factor in cracking is how well the wood was seasoned before use. My 74 negra used woods seasoned a minimum of 25 years back in 74. It has never cracked and was in storage for years in unheated rooms experiencing drastic changes. It was started in high elevation in Colorado, finished in Montana in an environment that had great humidity and temperature changes, and most of the years in Eastern Oregon, 13 of those years in a log cabin heated with wood that had humidity changes from 15% to 80%. During that same time I had my spruce and cypress Mexican Pimentel that was always kept with the 74. It developed 4 top cracks, 2 back cracks, and the sides split in half along the grain. I glued it together and kept it usable until I sold it a few years ago, but my opinion is it was made from wood not seasoned long enough even though it was about 4 years hanging in a shop in Juarez after being made in Mexico City and had no cracks when I bought it. It developed the first crack within a year of being in high elevation in Colorado. The only other guitar I had crack was the Dominguez made in Sevilla. It cracked after having it for 4 years. It still think the Spanish makers sell their guitars using lower grade and less seasoned wood to the USA dealers or tourist that come in their shops. While humidity changes and times of extreme dryness can cause cracking, I think the biggest factor in preventing cracking is making sure the wood is well seasoned before use. Makers that have a good stash of wood that has been adapting and seasoning in their shops or warehouses of suppliers in their area for at least a few years will have more success with that wood than ordering in wood from a different climate and using it immediately after getting it. This is why so many guitar and instrument makers are attracted to the Northwest. The supply of long seasoned tonewoods, both local and imported is abundant. I think your Tsiorba is improved because it is in the climate it was braced for. Had Peter braced it for low Utah humidity say 35-45%, then it might be less bright and loud in the coastal air. Wish my health would allow a visit, but I am lucky to even be away from the house for very long. Beautiful place you have to enjoy flamenco and life.
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Re: Guitar Humidity Effects

Postby Mendoza » 17 Nov 2011, 16:06

This is very interesting and thought provoking information. It is discussions like this that keep me coming back to this forum.

I want to buy a better guitar and have spent lots of time looking at guitars offered for sale on the web. Many are offered on a try and return if not satisfied basis, but how am I to know how a guitar will change after I have had it here in a different environment for a while? Maybe I should be trying to find local guitar that has been in this area for a long time.

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Re: Guitar Humidity Effects

Postby alvarez » 18 Nov 2011, 18:18

That probably is the only way to minimize unpredictable changes as a guitar adjusts to a local environment. Even if you were to purchase a guitar at local shop they might have recently shipped it in from almost anywhere. Of course, changes can be good as well as bad, so if you are willing to gamble, the end result might be good.

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Re: Guitar Humidity Effects

Postby byron » 18 Nov 2011, 19:02

This is an intriguing thread on environmental effects on guitars. I think it's a pleasant set of factors that lead us to the conclusion that it's probably better to buy a guitar from a local maker who uses local woods. I've done that a few times now and I'm happy to support local luthiers and to have a guitar that was "born and raised" in my home region. To have the science in line with the heart is rare.
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Re: Guitar Humidity Effects

Postby davinort » 19 Nov 2011, 18:33

Bob, what change in action (string height) did you encounter with this shift in humidity? It would seem that as the wood absorbed moisture, it should raise the action a bit, because the less-dense top will swell more than the ebony fretboard.
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Re: Guitar Humidity Effects

Postby Peter Tsiorba » 21 Nov 2011, 06:43

Bob,

What a unique opportunity to observe the effects of climate changes on multiple guitars. I would be interested in hearing what new changes your guitars will undergo (or not) in the coming months/years.

Building for a particular climate is an extremely reasonable idea, although not without serious limits when it comes to certain climates. Northeast USA is a good example. When I lived in New Hampshire, controlling climate in my guitar shop was nearly impossible. Winter humidity was ridiculously low, and the summer...well, about what you'd expect in Florida, hovering near 100% on many days. "Dry" guitar would likely be stressed in the humid summer, and the "wet" one having a rough winter time. I suppose in such climate, one might be better off with one guitar for each season.

David, I think you are correct about the actions getting slightly higher in higher humidity. The guitar soundboard's doming would normally slightly increase as the spruce or cedar absorb moisture. Someday, I want to experiment and find out if that doming change is more pronounced in guitars with, or without an under-bridge strap or "Bouchet" bar.

Bob, when you get tired of mild coastal weather, come and visit me in Portland. We tend to get a lot colder during winter months, February typically being very sunny and cold. It would never substitute for the real Utah winter, but be closer to the temp range nonetheless.
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Re: Guitar Humidity Effects

Postby Bob » 21 Nov 2011, 09:02

davinort wrote:Bob, what change in action (string height) did you encounter with this shift in humidity? It would seem that as the wood absorbed moisture, it should raise the action a bit, because the less-dense top will swell more than the ebony fretboard.

The higher humidity here on the Coast caused the strings on all my guitars to move higher above the frets as you expected, but I think for a slightly different reason than you suggested.

The effect of string tension is to pull the saddle closer to the nut. The nut position is supported by the relatively strong compression resistance of the neck. String tension doesn't significantly move the nut because of that mechanical resistance. In contrast, the saddle fits into a wooden bridge that is glued to a relatively flexible guitar top. Because of the relative flexibility of the top compared to the longitudinal incompressibility of the neck, the primary effect of string tension is to twist the bridge around its longitudinal axis and warp the guitar top such that the area beyond the bridge bulges up and the area on the sound-hole side of the bridge depresses slightly (the area beyond the bridge moves up more than the area near the hole moves down partly because the strings attach beyond the center of the longitudinal axis of the bridge and partly because of bracing differences on the two sides). The amount of top warp for a given total string tension depends on top stiffness. Top stiffness depends on wood type, grain structure, top thickness, other top dimensions, bracing, finish, and possibly other things, such as the stiffness of an attached golpeador. However, in addition to those relatively static properties, it also depends on the wood's moisture content. Damp wood is more flexible than dry wood and the higher the moisture content, the more the top will warp with a given total string tension. As the top warps the saddle rotates upward, raising the strings higher above the frets.

That effect was observed in reverse when Peter initially shipped my Tsiorba blanca from Portland to our previous home near Salt Lake City. He had packed it securely inside a guitar case and had then placed the guitar case inside a sealed shipping carton. Inside that protective "cocoon" he had placed some damp material to maintain a relatively-high humidity during shipment into the dry Utah air. When I first unpacked and played the guitar, the action was very low, but even so, there was very little string buzz. However, over the following days and weeks as the guitar dried out the action became too low and the buzzing increased. I mentioned that to Peter. He sent a new bone blank that I filed down to be higher than the original and the problem was solved until we moved here and the action became too high. Out of curiosity I put the original saddle back in the bridge this afternoon and the string height is now once again perfect.

The same thing was observed many years ago when on three different occasions I brought guitars made in Madrid to Salt Lake City. The strings started buzzing on all those guitars after they had been in Utah a while and all their saddles had to be raised considerably.

Another even more interesting aspect of this is the considerable improvement in tonal qualities with the much higher humidity here. Because damp wood is more flexible than dry, damp guitar tops vibrate farther up and down when strings are played. That makes the sound produced louder, but it also changes sound boxes resonances and profoundly changes how guitars sound. I have had all my guitars, but especially my Spanish-made guitars, long enough to be very familiar with how they used to sound. The improvement is amazing.

That also was observed in reverse long ago when I brought my Spanish-made guitars to Utah, although at that time I didn't understand the why. In each case those guitars sounded fabulous in Spain, but much less so after they had been in Utah a while. I remember wondering if the guy who sold me my first Ramirez could have somehow switched guitars before I left the shop, but in thinking back over everything that had happened that afternoon it seemed like that guitar had been constantly within my view from the time I played it.

The change from Spain to Utah was even greater with my Contreras negra. I played that and another almost identical guitar in Contreras' shop quite a while before deciding which of the two to buy. Paco de Lucía also played them both at his place before I decided (that was in the early 70's when Paco was still playing mostly traditional flamenco). Both those guitars sounded wonderful in Madrid, but the one I choose sounded increasingly less wonderful each time I played it back in Utah. Now here in Oregon it sounds like I remember it sounding long ago in Spain.

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Re: Guitar Humidity Effects

Postby Bob » 21 Nov 2011, 09:18

Peter Tsiorba wrote:Bob, when you get tired of mild coastal weather, come and visit me in Portland. We tend to get a lot colder during winter months, February typically being very sunny and cold. It would never substitute for the real Utah winter, but be closer to the temp range nonetheless.

We will be coming to Portland occasionally to visit some of the great restaurants and other things there, although we have been finding more great places to eat here on the Coast than we previously knew about. As for the "mild coastal weather" it is of course usually warmer in winter and cooler in summer here than in Portland, but a couple days this past week we had 50 MPH wind gusts, heavy rain, and temperatures about 10 degrees below normal. However, today was nice enough for a long walk down South Beach, even though the temperature is still below normal.

Anyway, we will be stopping by to see you from time-to-time.

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Re: Guitar Humidity Effects

Postby SamC » 22 Nov 2011, 20:01

Has anyone noticed that even if the humidity doesn't change much, but the barometric pressure changes significantly, that a fine guitar will change in tone and amplitude? Maybe it is just the way we hear it because of our ears changing. Maybe I notice this more because of inner ear damage and the way barometric pressure effects my ears.
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